Greek Soul Food

It doesn't get any more farm to table than Ntounias in Crete's White Mountains

Photos/Video by Scott Salem

Stelios Trilyrakis doesn't have a Michelin star (yet), but people come from around the world to a tiny village in the White Mountains of Crete to eat his food. He cooks only with wood fire. His dishes simmer slowly in clay pots over the flames or in a wood fired oven. Stelios farms the organic produce and raises livestock used in his recipes and is eager to direct you to see his rare Cretan cows. He makes his own cheese and bread. His neighbors make the wine. His wife and children help out in the kitchen. Ntounias is a farm to table restaurant where the farm is just steps from your table.

The chef noticed my fascination with his cooking, and invited me to lift a lid or two, and sneak a peak at the offerings of the day. He then took me by the arm into the kitchen to show off his oven.

When the waiter brought us menus, Stelios came to the table and asked us, "Do you trust me?" We said, "Yes", and he gave the menus right back to the server. We were brought a succession of six or seven "small" plates. Each one was better that the next. Cheese made from sheep and goat milk, snails, roasted baby lamb, the most amazing fried potatoes that were cooked slowly, mountain goat braised for hours.

The man bounces between his indoor and outdoor kitchens with tremendous energy, yet still finds the time to check in on us. We shower him with raves and compliments. He places his hand over his heart, and thanks us for trusting him.

Thank you, Stelios, for the best meal ever.

Homemade cheese and bread at Ntounias

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Ntounias

ΝΤΟΥΝΙΑΣ – ΕΣΤΙΑΤΟΡΙΟ Keramion, Nerokouros, Chania 731 00. Phone +30 28210 65083, +30 6974 989 248. steliostrilyrakis@gmail.com