Ezmorzaret

Valencia's mid morning break

You’re probably familiar with the Spanish tradition of an afternoon siesta. Workers typically get an hour break for cena, the main meal of the day, between 2 and 4pm. During our one-month visit to Valencia, we discovered ezmorzaret (in Valencian. It’s known as almuerzo in Spanish). It’s a mid morning tradition that is both mind blowing and gut busting.

The tradition originated in the rural areas of the Valencian province, where laborers who began work early in the morning needed to fuel after hours in the fields. The meal is usually consumed between 9 and 11 am. It’s a hearty meal, whose main star is the bocadillo, a foot long sandwich on a baguette. The bocadillo is usually accompanied by peanuts and olives. A cold beer is commonly consumed. To top things off; cremaet, a shot of espresso with a bit of rum. What’s truly amazing is at most places, the combo can be had for under ten euros.

We visited Bar Nuevo Oslo in the barrio of Extramurs, where proprietor, Raúl Bermejo is the self-proclaimed “King of Ezmorzaret”. You’ll see him dashing between the counter and his customers. The bar is popular with locals as well as out-of-towners. It is loud and energetic, and waiting for for a table is not uncommon, I would compare the vibe here to Katz’s deli in New York City, except our wait was only about ten minutes.

Fillings range from eggs to sardines, to fried calamari. There are dozens of combos on the menu. Personal mixtures are also encouraged. I opted for chivito-grilled pork loin, bacon, lettuce, tomato, eggs and cheese. Kat had tortilla de patatas, sausage and fig jam.

Where to go:

Bar Nuevo Oslo - Carrer del Doctor Sanchis Sivera, 7, Extramurs

La Bodeguita - Carrer de les Avellanes, 15, Ciutat Vella

Bar Cremaet - Av. del Port, 20, El Pla del Real

Go early and go hungry!

xox

Kat and Scott