Eating our way through Athens
A city worthy of more than just a stopover
A visit to Athens is often a one or two-day stopover for travelers making their way to and from one of Greece’s many islands. After spending a week in Crete we decided to extend our “layover” in Athens for 8 nights and dig deeper into exploring this energetic and historic city. And we were glad we did. We stayed in Psyri, a quirky and lively neighborhood of winding streets lined with spice shops, restaurants, and street art.
Eat & Drink
Atlantikos, Avliton 7 - our first stop upon arriving was at this bustling fish shop where we sat outside in a narrow alleyway and feasted on grilled whole red mullet, chickpeas w/ smoked fish, whole green beans w/ garlic sauce and chips (french fries.) We finished off our meal with an orange cake with vanilla ice cream and sipped a digestif of Ouzo. Ouzo symbolizes the spirit of Greek life - distilled in Athens, the "birthplace of civilization." A delicious start!
A Home Cooked Meal - we booked a 3-hour dining experience through Eat With at the home of Dimitris & Savvas where their wonderful rooftop terrace had a breathtaking view of the Acropolis. To our surprise we discovered that our hosts were also our neighbors and their apartment was in the same building as our Airbnb and just an elevator ride away!
We started the evening with a welcome aperitivo of raki (a classic Greek drink) followed by a 7-course seasonal meal, all family recipes made with locally sourced ingredients:
Squash soup w/ crispy ham.
Grandmother's pie - traditional homemade spinach-cheese pie with handmade phyllo pastry (a very secret recipe.)
Fava dip and eggplant dip (smoked aubergine with baked Thracian garlic.)
Naxos potatoes w/ cheese - Greek style roasted potatoes in the oven with lemon from Sparta, rosemary, thyme, oregano and olive oil.
Their version of the famous Greek salad with tomato and feta cheese.
Veal & orzo casserole.
Buffalo milk ice cream w/ baklava, crumbled pistachio and sweet sour cherries.
Bougatsadiko Psirri, Pl. Iroon 1 - a local restaurant with outdoor seating near Iroon Square. For breakfast we started with cappuccino frappes and savored the traditional Greek custard pie - bougatsa w/ cream & hazelnut followed by a Greek yogurt & fruit salad with honey so fresh you’d swear bees just produced it! In case you’re interested the name of the cafe in Greek is: Μπουγατσάδικο η Θεσσαλονίκη στου Ψυρρή.
O babas, Falirou 53 - a coffee/bar in the Koukaki neighborhood serving delicious frappes.
Doc’s Burger Bar, Miaouli 9 - street food with overstuffed gyro’s of chicken & french fries and more.
Coffee Lab, Sofokleous 18 - great flat white coffee and tomato & leek pie. It’s a franchise with many locations, however the service still feels local.
Feyrouz, Κarori 23, Agathonos 1 - family-owned and named after a popular Lebanese singer serving modern and inventive Middle Eastern street food. We had amazing Lahmajun, thin handmade rolled dough baked and stuffed with an insane array of tasty spices and ingredients.
Barreldier, Voulis 7 - a small, all-day cafe/bar in the Historic Center serving barrel aged negronis with Luxardo cherries and a bowl of complimentary chips.
Kokkion, Protogenous 2 - a small cozy shop serving handmade ice cream. We visited thrice during our stay. Their signature is kaimaki - a traditional flavor with buffalo milk and mastic (a resin obtained from the mastic tree.)
Taverna Klimataria, Pl. Theatrou 2 - home-style cooking. Rustic setting. Shared plates of grilled vegetables w/ halloumi cheese, traditional Soutzoukakia (Greek baked meatballs in tomato sauce & rice), and a 1/2 carafe of house rose. We finished with Ekmek Kataifi - a traditional Greek three layer dessert of pastry, custard and cream and raki digestif.
Granada, Miltiadou 11 - a cozy spot serving Greek-Spanish fusion cuisine. Outdoor seating. We opted for the green salad w/ goat cheese, bacon, berries, grilled vegetables, the lamb croquettes w/ yogurt, the pork cheeks in risotto and the potatoes bravas (we were introduced to these in Barcelona, this is the Greek spin on it.) And finished our meal with the traditional raki digestif.
To Koulouri of Psirri, 23 Georgiou Karaiskakis - small bakery that sells fresh koulouri (sesame bread rings) a favorite Athenian snack. On our second visit there we tried the baklava and traditional cheese pie, both delicious. Outdoor seating and great coffee. Their kiosk next door sells hot bags of koulouri to go.
Mokka, Athinas 44 - serves Greek coffee brewed in small pots on hot sand. The orange cake was otherworldly.
Kpivos, Aiolou 87 - bakery/cafe specializing in Greek doughnuts, also known as loukoumades and other Greek specialties like cheese pie w/ sesame.
Zisis, Athinaidos 3 - seafood shop serving fish in a cone. We tried the anchovies and calamari and both were delicious.
The Traditional, Kolokotroni 59 - outdoor seating. Serving up generous portions of tasty grilled meats. We had beetroot salad, veal chops & fries and chicken souvlaki.
Do & See
Plaka - also known as the "neighborhood of the gods” it is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the center of Athens, located right below the Acropolis Hill. In nearby Anafiotika we wandered this scenic tiny neighborhood lined with whitewashed houses and narrow cobblestone streets.
Changing of the Guard Ceremony - takes place at The Presidential Mansion and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier near Syntagma Square every hour, but the official ceremony with the Evzones Unit takes place on Sundays at 11 AM. It involves two incoming and two outgoing sentries marching in a slow motion, coordinated walk. It’s really something to see. Go on Sunday to see the entire show if you can.
National Historical Museum - we stumbled upon this small museum and were treated with a vivid presentation of modern Greek history through artwork and artefacts, with a focus on the war of independence and the founding of the Modern Greek State.
Acropolis and Parthenon - the Parthenon (3300 years old) is an ancient religious temple the Athenians built for the Greek goddess Athena. The Acropolis is the high hill (511 feet) that the Parthenon was built on. Depending on the time of year, the lines and crowds can be crazy, not to mention the heat, so it’s best to get an early morning start, or go close to sundown. We actually prefer the view of the hill and Parthenon from afar.
The Honeycomb, Straight 1-3 - we stumbled upon this tiny family-run honey shop. The charming owner gave us a first hand education and tasting on the various species of bees and the honey they harvest and produce. We bought a few jars to enjoy back home, so worthy of a spot in our carry-on!
Spices - plenty of small shops specializing in an array of spices on Evripidou St. Interestingly enough it is usually the men who are in the shops buying the spices. So many to choose from - it’s stunning. Another item we brought home with us.
Varvakios Central Market - a local market is always a stop on our trips. We picked up ingredients for a traditional greek salad. Some amazing Graviera cheese & a bag of cured black olives. And a selection of Pastourma, air-dried cured meat from beef and water buffalo flavored with intense spices. We enjoyed our lunch back on the patio of our Airbnb.
Overnight Trip to Hydra Island
The nice thing about Athens is you can take an 1-hour and 40 minute ferry ride on (Hellenic Seaways) to one of Greece’s most alluring islands. Here we were transported to a car free island where the only permitted modes of transportation are by foot, horse, mule, or donkey. Boats arrive in the port with the fresh catch of day. There are an abundance of orange and lemon trees. We stumbled upon a movie set where a Leonard Cohen biopic was filming. We stayed at the charming Kirki Hotel - the rooms are small, but designed with simplicity and style and the staff friendly.
Xeri Elia Douskos, Idra 180 40 - a nice outdoor patio setting with plenty of friendly cats. Lunch was sea bass, eggplant w/feta, cabbage salad, and 1/2 carafe of rose.
Tsagkaris Pastry Shop, Ikonomou, Idra - family owned. Their specialty is almond pastries. We gravitated towards their homemade ice cream and I couldn’t resist repeating the rosewater ice cream, while Scott opted for the orange ice cream and a rice pudding. So delicious we went back twice.
The Cool Mule, Idra 180 40 - we tried this spot too for their inventive ice cream flavors - orange cake and baklava.
The Pirate Bar & Cafe, Votsi, Idra - opened in 1976 with outdoor seating and a view of the port, this may be the liveliest spot on this quiet island. Delicious Negronis. The daughter-in- law of the owners, who happened to be from the U.S., gave us some suggestions on how to enjoy our time here.
Kai Kremmidi, A. Papandreou Tompazi - specializing in souvlaki, we had the greek salad with amazing feta and lamb, chicken and pork skewers over warm pita and delicious fried potatoes.
Techne Restaurant & Social, Epar.Od. Mandrakiou-Molou - outdoor seating with a beautiful view of the Aegean sea. Serves modern Greek cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Food tried too hard to be innovative for our liking though.
Leonard Cohen’s House, Antonνioi Lignoi 34 - we had fun winding our way through the narrow alleys up and down steps, frequently yielding to donkeys carrying supplies to discover the home and historical landmark of the Canadian songwriter.
Rafalia Pharmacy, Votsi, Idra - founded in 1890, the oldest pharmacy in Greece. Family-owned recipes of perfumes and skin and hair products.
Yia sas!
Kat & Scott x
April 2023
Wonderful trip! That island is beautiful.